Sunday, 11 October 2015

An Abrupt Ending!

Some times when your climbing the unexpected can occur.
On the 13th of September, it was one of those days.....
The weather had finally cleared up after day on day off rain and I was super syked to finally be able to pull on Cherry Picking in dry conditions!
The first session went really well! About an hour in I reached a high point touching the last hold on the hardest move!

Feeling confident I returned to the boulder the very next day and without thinking decided it would be a good idea to pull on right away without warm up....
The second I pulled on and grabbed that thin left hand crimp, I new I'd fucked up.....
Anyway, my finger is improving quickly and I should be back at full strength within a month or two.
In the mean time enjoy this delightful little video of the climbs I recorded before the incident occurred :)

Monday, 7 September 2015

Week 1 - Mt Fox and Buandik

Been down in the Gramps for a week now.The weather has been awesome and the Bouldering has far exceeded my expectations! Mt Fox is amazing, the quality of rock is in some parts better than the Northern Grampains. I had a lucky first day flashing a problem that was high up on the tick list Outside V11, A absolute stunner of a line! The crux is at the start on some tiny crimps and the feet are big and obvious. It's just a matter of execution and pulling super hard on the tiny first holds! Props to Dave Kellermann for establishing this world class line, which will no doubt be sort after by internationals for many years to come!

After having a look around some of the other area's, I spoke with Dave about a problem in the first sector up to the right which had awesome potential of becoming an area favorite. The boulder was simple and steep with 3 killer rails that had some nice incut edges. It was pretty much just a matter of dynoing from one rail to the next and was completely dependent on raw power. The problem suited my style and went down pretty much straight away, I decided on "159" V9, because it climbed just like a campus board with the previous rail being used as feet for the following moves to come.

After spending a couple of days at Mt Fox I decided to check out what Buandik had to offer in terms of boulders. Last year I ventured up the steep hill for a day of Sport Climbing, little did I know that the walk in was surrounded by what could only be compared to as a mini Andersons. If your keen on hard bouldering V9 - V14, this is the place for you! There is 50 or so established lines, most of them high quality solid orange sandstone goodness. Some of the boulders have holds similar to "Grip Master" in the North, others are more like the rock in the Trackside Area. If you've ever climbed in those area's before, then you know what I am talking about.

On the first day I went straight to Roobexcube, passing though Skull area I stumbled across a sweet cave which had a couple of really nice looking holds. This climb in days to come, because a working project which I haven't managed to send yet. The crux consist of a super hard gaston from a bad pinch into a perfect sloppy triangle in the roof of the cave, from there it's about V8 though the topout. I've decided to take a break from this boulder after 3 solid sessions of effort trying to pull the first move. I should also mention Roobexcube is a world class line and probably the best boulder in the Buandik area.

Developing a Tick List

Well I've been working up to going on another climbing trip ever since my finger started to show sighs of improvement.

This Saturday it's down to the Southern Gramps to start work on some of the recently developed boulders around the Buandik campground and Mt Fox area. I'm really excited to do some exploring and hopefully tick a few classics!

In the first week I plan to focus on getting conditioned to outdoor bouldering again, there are two boulders I want to get on straight away, Simplicity v12 & Roobixcube V12.

Apparently the two boulders are on the softer end of V12 and hopefully will give me the confidence boost needed to have a good go at Cherry Picking V13, the biggest objective for me of the entire trip!
I guess I'll just have to see how strong I'm feeling and how suited the climbs are to my style... hoping for the best!!

Tuesday, 29 October 2013

Bouldering in Joe's!

So since I escaped the rain in Squamish, I've been hanging out in Joe's Valley,Utah.
The style of climbing here is just like home and has got me super syked to try hard on the bloc's again.
I only got about 10 days in Joe's but that was plenty of time to sample the classics!

Managed to put a short video together with some highlights of the trip:

Tuesday, 3 September 2013

Roping up!

Never thought I would be wearing a harness ever again.... apart from the odd highball or boulder scrubbing endeavor, but life is a bit funny that way.
I remember packing my very small amount of things for Canada weighing up between a harness and a 5th pair of under jocks haha...Glad I made the right decision on that one.

It's been a week now since I started working Dreamcatcher and the moves are coming together much faster than I anticipated.
The climbing suits my style perfectly (aside from the v7 slab before you reach the rail) and I have about 4 weeks of good weather left before moving onto Bishop so investing time into this project could be a gamble.

The climb is so amazingly aesthetic, a lot of the holds are so perfect I could only compare it to Serpentine in the Grampians, just move after move on perfect holds that make it seem like the line was made to be climbed.

Anyway I'll try and get some pic's even though I only have my Go Pro, in the mean time here is a video of one of Squamish's most popular boulder problems down at Murrin Lake.

Wednesday, 21 August 2013

Bouldering in Squamish

I've been in Squamish for about three weeks now and I'm still coming to terms with just how amazing this place is.

The insane amount of boulders scattered though out the forest conveniently shaded over by thousands of pine trees and a 600 meter wall makes it possible to climb at any point of the day. 

 Smooth rock is what Squamish is all about!


Working Vince Pinch in the Grand Wall Area.  

There is so much natural beauty in the forest, the air is fresh and the scenery is just amazing.
Squamish is completely surrounded by mountains covered with snow and pine trees and there's a huge volcano just chilling in the background.

The style of climbing here is really different from Australia, all the climbing is on polished granite which requires good footwork and core tension.

Because my time is relatively short here in Squamish, I've decided to only focus on projecting a coupe of times a week and leave the rest of the time to climbing as many classic boulders as humanly possible.

Time is just flying by and I don't want to leave with only a hand full of ticks in my Squamish guide book!

At first I was camping which is 8 bucks a night, but since then I've managed to acquire a lovely Mazda van which has a double bed and a sweet cooking area at the back.

I'm estimating about 6 or so more weeks in Squamish at which point I'll be heading down to Bishop!!

Thursday, 11 July 2013

The Beginning of a Grand Adventure!

Well... last week my trip to the Grampians came to an end :(
I must say what an amazing time I had there, meeting so many fantastic a incredibly motivated people from all over Australia and abroad.

Already I look back over the 3 months of living in my Mitsubishi van eating, sleeping, shitting and climbing was the daily routine and somehow it's already a blur in the back of my mind, feeling like it was just yesterday when I told the man to go fuck himself and the system that had imprisoned me for what seemed like an eternity.

Hopefully I will have the cash to spend some more time in the Grampians after my overseas shenanigans, with so many projects unfinished...
Just to name a few:
Mana - 13 days
Pretty Hate Machine - 8 days
Zeus - 5 days
Last Action Hero - 4 days

The time invested continually throughing myself at a single move for 13 session, two shoe resoles and a repetitive strain injury in my left scapula without the send was still rewarding and has helped me to better control my over attachment to projects without losing motivation.

So what now you may ask....? Well on the 23rd of July I will be facing my fears of flying after watching to many Air Crash Investigation and heading abroad to the Land of the Maple.

I leave you for now with a video I've put together from some of the highlights of my trip and hopefully everyone reading this will feel just a little more inspired by the magic that is the Grampians National Park!!

PS.. don't forget to watch it in HD for that added inspiration ;)